Sunday, 20 November 2011

The 12 days of Papa (part 3)


Today is a day of many firsts for Papa. First time Papa experiences a pack up, a long drive, the unpack at the other end and the huge pressure placed on the front seat passenger to photograph all E.C.S, road signs and really any thing that appears of any interest.

 Well spotted Papa...we are still in awe of these enormous pieces of machinary. But wait, it gets even more fascinating....

....what the?????? we have no idea what this is, however Rob had a chat with the driver, over the CB radio, and found out that the shrink wrapping alone cost $6,500!!!!!!! These were all taken at the Auski Roadhouse in Munjina. On the front door they are advertising a sweep for the race that stops a nation...in the middle of nowhere!!!!!( Is it November already??) Here Papa and Linda meet one crazy Swiss fellow on his pushbike. He flew in to Darwin and has ridden all the way here. He is planning on continuing his trip down to Perth. He left us speechless.( Quite an achievement for Mrs Havachat! ) 


E.C.S. "Could this be the Devils Marbles?" one funny child innocently asks.
E.C.S.

E.C.S.

E.C.S.

Linda's turn to provide the piggy back ride. This visitor centre is one of the most informative we have encountered and is full of information about the geology, flora, fauna and Aboriginal history of this region.



Setting up at Dales Campground. Lovely large sites but no power or water so you need to be self sufficient. The peaceful serenity of the bushland setting is just amazing.

 A nice father/daughter moment. No, Linda hasn't switched faiths......Karijini, home of the "pesky" (the small bush fly). The head nets become indispensible to those who don't like repellent on their faces.

Tomorrow it is time to get those hiking boots out and prepare to get the Gores into the gorgeous gorges! 

The 12 days of Papa (part 2)

Day 3 with Papa and we are all beginning to feel like it has always been this way. Today we are off to explore Millstream-Chichester National Park. We forgot to add that Boaz and Timna decided to go out in sympathy with Benj and not swim for the week. Boaz developed an ear infection the day prior to benji's injury and timna the day after!!!! So, with some minor changes to our plans due to reduced swimming capabilities, we set off.

We finally come face to face with the much read about iron ore train. These trains belong to Rio Tinto and they are transporting iron ore from any of the 14 Rio Tinto controlled mines to the ports of either Cape Tambert ( near Point Samson ) or  Dampier. There is one train driver responsible for 234 iron ore cars each with a loading capacity of 112 tonnes. A fully loaded train will weigh 31,000 tonnes and be 2.4 kms in length!!!  You don't want to get caught at the railway crossing when one of these are coming through!!!

Just to show how close you sometimes drive to these incredible trains. We thought the 4 trailer road train was impressive.....not so after driving alongside one of these. This one is empty and heading back to be refilled.

E.C.S.

Getting a closer look at the railway line.....actually look at what Rob has in his hand. Isn't he romantic.............

Noooo.......... all in the name of some beautiful wild flower photography. A wee bit on the windy side and Rob needed an assistant to hold the flower so he would get the perfect shot. We must say, not a bad picture!!!




Millstream Chichester N.P is home to the Yindijibarndi and Ngarlumu indigenous people. It holds great cultural and mythological importance. Millstream is the home of the serpent/warlu. Due to the serpents presence, they believe all the pools warrant a high level of respect. We learnt that to show your respect you are supposed to do 2 things. 1. prior to entering the water, take a mouthful of water, spit it out and introduce yourself to the serpent, and be grateful for the opportunity to swim in its water. 2. enter the water with as little fuss as possible.

This is the Visitor Centre. It was the homestead of the Millstream Pastoral Station, from 1920 till 1964. It then became a tavern till 1986. Now it is managed by the Department of Environment and Conservation. The Yindjibarndi people have opportunity to work as rangers or contract workers within the park in order to maintain their connection to this land. The Millstream precinct is also a priority one water catchment area.



The water that feeds this incredible oasis comes from a natural underground reserve found in the porous dolomite rock. This underground reserve supplies water to the people of Dampier,Wickham, Point Samson, Roebourne and Karratha.

With all this new information on board we head off to do a little stroll around the homestead.

This is a drawing by a 12 year old boy whose family were involved with Millstream for many decades. This is his depiction of the station. The drawing is very detailed and records many events that this boy experienced here.

A beautiful shady spot for our picnic lunch.

The current mode of transport for Benj. Between the 3 three adults he is never without a ride.
 The Fortescue River which is one of the few permanent watercourses in the area.


Time for a swim for all but poor Benji as the noodle enables Timna and Boaz to keep their ears dry. No crocs thankfully, but plenty of fish and one persistent wasp!

Well deserved dinner back at the camp. When looking closer at this pic we notice the can of poison, sorry, can of trusty Bushmans. Prior to here, we hadn't used it for many many weeks but Point Samson is the home of the pesky sandfly or midgee. The bites are nasty and hang around for ever, and without the spray you are covered in flies and then subsequently their bites!! 

Our last night in Point Samson and we get ready for a big day of driving as we will be heading to Karijini National Park. For this we head north back towards Port Hedland, and then veer inland. Our expectations are elevated as all we have heard is great news about Karijini and its gorgeous gorges!

Friday, 18 November 2011

The 12 days of Papa (part 1)

We are still waking with the birds, so the kids find plenty of time to do some catch up journal writing this morning. Well truth be told, the kids have lost their enthusiasm for journal writing, but nothing works better to make them sit down, than the odd bribe..oh sorry, we meant to say words of encouragement!!!!
We were all trying to get used to this quiet caravan park. We are all missing the friendly chats and hellos from new and old companions....when as Linda came out of the toilet she saw our dear neighbours from Kununurra. It was really cool to find them once more. After saying farewell to them in Broome ( we first met in Kununurra, then Derby then Broome) we did not think our paths would cross again. Poor Bev, like you Roslyn/mum, she is a bit of a worry wart. Having worried all night about us in Kununurra (the day we had car troubles), then again in Derby when we stayed out late to see the sun set and have dinner by the beach.......she probably was relieved to have said bye to us in Broome. They really were generous souls. Later on in the day, they came over to give us an information book about WA, NT and QLD, that they thought we would really enjoy!!! This trip has really been made special by the people we have been priviliged to meet.
There is so much for us to learn about this section of the Pilbara....so here we go...................................





First stop Cossack. The above is the Cossack Museum in the old courthouse. This small town, now a ghost town, was first established in 1863. It was originaly the main shipping port for the north west coast, home to the North West's first pearling industry and saw hundreds of prospectors hoping to strike it rich during the gold rush days. Unfortunately, Cossacks harbour proved too shallow for the growing demand and increase in the size of ships. The pearlers also moved further north to Broome, and the town of Cossack was eventually abandoned by 1950. This historic town, its many restored heritage buildings and cemetary, give you a glimpse of what life in Cossack must have been like all those years ago. No mention, however, of Russian horsemen or pogroms!!!!



Judge Robbie, ooh he did enjoy this fleeting moment!!!!!!!

All found guilty of having way too much fun with Papa.

One of the tombstones in the cemetery.

The view from the cemetary. Not a bad spot for your final resting place.


The kids have been waiting for this moment.  Finally getting to see the Red Dog Memorial Statue. For them it lived up to all expectations. Having all seen the Red Dog Movie, we all felt like we knew Red Dog. Whilst in Dampier we purchased a copy of the original Red Dog story which the movie was based on. The kids all read this copy and this is what they shared with us. Red Dog's real name was Tally Ho. Although he had many different names as he spent time with his many different masters. The name Red Dog came about by the colour he became after spending a trip on the back of a ute as he was way too stinky to sit in the cab. All that was recognizable of him were his eyes. He had turned red like the red dust.


 
Dampier houses port facilities for Dampier Salt, Pilbara Iron ( Rio Tinto ) and the Woodside operated North West Shelf Venture and Karratha Gas Plant.




Dampier was first discovered by Englishman William Dampier in 1699, but apparently he did not think too much of the then barren coastline. The town of Dampier was not established until 1966 by Hammersley Iron, now known as Pibara Iron. This picture is taken at the William Dampier Lookout. 



Here we ate lunch and watched them filling the huge ships with iron ore and salt. We learnt this iron ore comes from Paraburdoo. The iron ore from Linda's new love, Tom Price goes to Cape Lambert, which is right next to Point Samson. This is one of the highest and longest wharves in Australia. It is 3.98 km long and  has a minimum clearance of 17.8 metres above high tide. The giant ore carrier ships await to be filled. It takes 24 - 36 hours to load one of these ships with iron ore.



The Pilbara has Australia's largest solar salt field, with Dampier Salt being Western Australia's principal salt producer. They export something like 4 million tonnes of salt each year. We learnt that this salt is mainly used in the chemical industry, for road de-icing and for the production of plastics and glass. It is also used in food processing and for food products.









Along the road that lead to the Woodside North West Shelf Gas Venture, is some of the most prolific rock engravings. These are known as petroglyphs. These are considered to among the earliest examples of art in Australia. Apparently this art is 6000 to 30,000 years old ( not a typo!!)It is very different Aboriginal art then what we have seen, but if you looked carefully you could see pictures of turtles or kangaroos. They tell us that more than 10,000 individual rock engravings have been identified in this area.



Robbie is still finding incredible wild flowers to photograph. We are thinking that perhaps a coffee table book of all his wild flowers might be in order on our return!!!


Hearsons Cove. A beautiful sheltered swimming area. Our swimming and relaxing soon came to a sudden halt when Benji exits the water with a bleeding foot. A quick inspection reveals something that most likely would require more than a bandaid. So off we go to the Karratha Hospital. The triage nurse feels the most likely culprit for the injury is an oyster shell. They recommended suturing, but were worried about infection, especially as we are off to Karijini National Park. They then looked for glue....none available and they were not too impressed with Rob's suggestion to use super glue!!! They bandaged it all up, advised no walking on it at for 48 hours and said if it starts bleeding to just use duct tape and tape the foot back together.....comforting advice!!!!!  Benj is not allowed to get it wet for 7 days. The countdown begins!!! Benj has taken all this in his stride. Piggy back riding is the new mode of transport for Benj. We make some modifications to our next few days, but onwards and inland we travel.







Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Papa!!!

Here in Point Samson we excitedly await the beginning of  a new phase of our caravan trip. 12 days with Papa. With Papa we are off to explore the Pilbara region. This is to include the towns of Karratha, Dampier, Tom Price and the lesser known ones of Cossack and Wickham. Then from here we will head inland into Karijini National Park, the 2nd biggest national park in W.A., and then to Exmouth and the Ningaloo Reef.
On our way to collect Papa we visit the Karratha Information Centre and find out how close we are to the home of Red Dog, and the Red Dog statue. We find out there is no available accomodation in Karratha ( in its caravan parks) till March 2012 as they are currently all filled with miners.
Point Samson has a population of 400, that has currently swelled to a couple of thousand due to all the miners. People that work in the mines - in any capacity, earn lots and lots. As a result everything here is so expensive. For example - rent for a dodgy 4 bedroom home can cost in excess of $2000/week.
Major Industrial Projects of the Pilbara Region are Dampier Salt, Pilbara Iron (Rio Tinto) and Woodsides North West Shelf Gas Venture (one of the worlds largest producers of gas).
This marks the beginning of Linda's fascination/love affair with all things mining.


Point Samson's main beach.


On the way to the airport to GET PAPA.......

The obligatory stop at the Karratha Visitors Centre. These goannas look so prehistoric. This one was hiding under the windmill at the entrance.
 



We think they night be just a little happy to see each other!!!!


No not a caravan retail yard, rather our caravan park in Point Samson. the most concrete we have seen in a while. This park is probably the most sterile and quiet one we have been in. The biggest percentage of its clientele are people that work on the mines. The oddest thing about this park are the sensor lights in the ablution blocks (toilet/showers). We first learnt about this as the lights went out during Linda's shower!! Quite entertaining, apparantly, trying to find a light switch in the dark, when no light switch actually existed!!!!

Back at the caravan park, checking out some gifts from home. Thanks Nanny and Aunty Margot!


                           Picture taken by Timna when we arrive back at the camp..............looking pretty relaxed already!!!!!!


Exploring the low tide beach at Honeymoon Cove about 100 metres from our caravan. Awesome views, crystal clear water, lots and lots of sand flies!!!!




The kids aptly named this picture of the crescent moon, the Cheshire cat from Alice in Wonderland. Now it is off to bed as we prepare to rise early and make the most of our time with Papa.