Wednesday, 30 November 2011

The 12 days of Papa ( part 6 )

We arrive into Tom Price, about 1600 klms from Perth on the edge of the Hammersley Ranges. It is the highest town above sea level in WA (747 metres). As a result it has been dubbed the 'Top Town of WA!' In 1952, Lang Hancock began surveying the Hammersley Ranges and discovered iron ore deposits. During the 1960's, an American, Thomas Moore Price, came to the area to assess the quality of the iron ore that had recently been discovered. He assisted Hancock in lobbying the government to allow the mines and export of iron ore to go ahead. In Sept 1962 he returned to America. He passed away from a heart attack 2 hours after finding out that the iron ore was of an extremely good quality. The town was officially established in 1962, and in recognition of his efforts, the mountain and the town of Tom Price were named after him.

 The town was originally privately owned by the Hancock group, but was eventually sold to the Shire of Ashburton for $1. 


Dawn at our caravan park at Tom Price. A fascinating town which was purpose built around the iron ore mine. When first established in 1962, it was a closed town - for those working in the mine only. In its early days it was known as a cowboy town and was 99% male. Over the years this changed to it becoming a place for young families. It now boasts 3 primary schools, each with 300 children, a high school and a TAFE. We are guessing there is not much to watch on TV! The male to female ratio of workers has also changed. It is now 60% male to 40%female. They said there is a big push for women truck drivers, as women apparently look after their rigs better!!


Five years ago Tom Price was opened to the public and is now a great tourist spot. Whether to just drive through as you head out of, or into, Karijini National Park, or as a way to get up close and personal with a working mine.


The size of all the machinary at the Rio Tinto mine was mind boggling. Hard to describe, but look at the contrast when compared with a regular car. We must add that the white Toyota Prado, or Hilux, with a yellow and black stripe sporting an orange flag on their large UHF antennae have become a familiar sight for us on the roads ever since reaching the Pilbara Region.



Our bus driver had to radio for permission to travel on several of the roads within the mine. The traffic controller he was talking to was actually situated in Perth airport!! In fact the future of mining is all going to be based around the diggers, graders and trucks operating by remote control. Some of the machinery at this site is already being controlled remotely from hundreds of kilometres away. So, kids, keep practicing your playstation and a mining job could be yours!! 


The safety equipment required to be worn at all times when not on the bus. It is a sackable offence for a worker to be caught outside without it. Quite the fashion statement don't you think!!!


The Tom Price open pit is 5.5 kms long and 1.5 kms wide. It is aprox. 500 metres deep. They have extracted aprox. 1 billion tonnes of iron ore and waste rock from it to date!! This pit is Mount Tom Price.  It was one of the tallest mountains in WA. Not any more. When they first began mining , they had thought all mining would be completed within 50 years. With advancements in surveying technology using satelites, they now estimate they have another 150 years worth of mining. When the mining is finished they will be rebuilding Mt Tom Price with all the waste rock. Too bizarre.

 
You begin to feel you have entered a different dimension. Have we shrunk???


The local repair garage for the tonka trucks. This pic taken from the safety of our tour bus. All seems pretty ordinary until you pick out the person standing in front of the 3rd garage opening.


They call this the Pilbara fog.

After the tour, and with settled weather reports around Karijini, we make the return trip to the National Park, but this time head for Weano Gorge. Actually, it is raining and looking rather ominous in Tom Price, but we decide to brave it...we can always turn back! We travel on, and the rain disappears, the sky clears and we have a beautiful day ahead of us.

We had been pre-warned about road conditions from the Karijini Visitors Centre, as well as many travellers we had met on our travels, but it actually turned out to be not as bad as we feared.


So here Rob goes again. This little rapid tyre deflator has proven to be have been a worthy purchase.


E.C.S.  The corrugated road ahead and the return of the red dirt. Linda finally learns that the reason the dirt is red is because of its high iron ore content. (quick as lightning!!)



The corrugations help to bounce every one off to sleep. Except the driver of course!! And the photographer (for a little while anyway!).

First stop at the Oxer Lookout. This looks out over where five gorges meet and is incredibly spectacular.



Although we do not do all the walks available, due to the difficulty of some trails and the water crossings involved, we do make it down one of them. A fuller exploration to be done another time, hopefully. 

To continue along this trail takes you through the water of this gorge and Benji's foot, although feeling much better, still needs to be kept dry so we amuse ourselves with skipping stones and exploring the surrounding area.


E.C.S. as we return home to Tom Price.


What goes down must go back up! Another well used investment.
Time for a snooze while dad does the work.

Got to love the power of the sun. No, not mimi spirits, but an unusual family portrait!



Quite proud of himself, our Robbie. A much better face than the camel face!!!! Note the fly about to crawl up his nose!










The 12 days of Papa ( part 5 )

So, you remember those rain drop that Linda felt whilst we were all at Fern Pool? Well, those rain drops turned into the most spectacular storm - rain, wind, thunder and the most incredible lightning show that we had seen for a long time. It did all this from about 1.30pm till dawn the next day!!!! Unortunately, no pics cause the wind was so crazy there was no safe dry place outside the caravan. This gave Papa time to spend even more special time with the kids. We think he played every game we brought up with us!!!! This time also showed us how well the van coped with us in there for a whole day. Due to the storm we decided to postpone our visit to the other side of Karijini and head in to Tom Price. But first we returned to Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool to see the impact post the rain.


 To the left of Robbie you can just make out Fortescue Falls. Certainly more water flowing compared to yesterday. However, there was one unexpected surprise for us.

That beautiful crystal clear, see all the way to the bottom, water of yesterday, now looked like the Yarra River!!! Red water was now flowing down the rocks. Not as inviting to swim in today.

But what a lot of fun we had exploring the area. Benj particularly seemed quite at home here.


Yes there is someone climbing this sheer wall, no it isn't one of us. Not what we are encouraging people to be doing  ......but not a bad photo opportunity. Crazy tourist.



Fern Pool after the storm. You can see some of the tree casualties across the decking. Certainly a different pool today!! 



Off to Tom Price.






Mount Bruce (1235m). The 2nd highest mountain in WA
E.C.S


A few days ago when reading the Camps Book, Linda commented on a free camp called R.I.P. We had a giggle and wondered who would wish to camp at such a place. Today when driving we turned off the road following a photo opportunity sign- post. Surrounding the perimeter of this lookout were hundreds of rocks each with a statement of rememberance to either a friend or family member. Now it all made sense. What an incredible memorial place. Still not sure we would choose to free camp here though.


The kids in their now favourite spot to take in the awesome views. Roof racks now serving a double purpose.


The welcome to Tom Price monument. Tonka truck on steroids!
Time to find out why this unique town was to become such a favourite with Linda.............................

Sunday, 20 November 2011

The 12 days of Papa (part 4)



Like a lot of the national parks we have been lucky to visit, Karijini holds great significance to the traditional owners, the Banyima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama Aboriginal people. Evidence of their occupation dates back 30,000 years. We can all learn much from the Aboriginal land management practices. Gorges here we come.........

We have seen a lot of gorges since leaving Melbourne...but wonders will never cease to amaze. So far we have entered gorges from the ground up. We have floated through many waterways, walked through many more dry waterbeds and looked up in amazement at the sheer height of the walls before then walking up....but this is the first time we have started at the top. This is the lookout over Dales Gorge which encompasses Circular  Pool, Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. We are walking distance from where we have set up camp.






It's a long way down.

Here we go.....down to Circular Pool. Benj is now allowed to walk on his foot......a bit hesitant at first, but it does not take long for his confidence to  return and he jumps from rock to rock like a mountain goat! Carefully of course!! 

 After a fairly steep rocky decline we then get to wander across the bottom of the gorge. Amazing to imagine what this place looks like when the rains set in. As is common place everywhere, there are lots of warning signs....careful of cliff face, careful of  loose rocks and here we learn about a new risk. Flash floods. Not something we have to worry about due to the time of the year, however it certainly plays on the mind. The advice to heed is do not enter the gorges if there is rain in the area or if already in the gorge leave as quickly as you can.  Something to take seriously as there was a recent death of a rescuer when trying to help an injured tourist  when a flash flood came through and swept him away.  




At the base of Circular Pool. You might be thinking that Benj was pondering how good it would have been to go for a swim...actually he was introducing himself to the warlu/serpent and thanking it for letting him share the water. This was the process we learnt about respecting the spiritual significance of these waters.

One of the many special moments between Papa and the kids.

More beautiful wild flowers.

What comes down must go back up!!!

Wahoo!!!!! we did it. Safe and sound......now where is that ice cream?????

                          Looking down on Fortescue Falls. Impressive already from this height. One can only imagine what it must look like at the peak of the wet season. With respect and some sadness we make our way down to the bottom. When at the Visitors Centre we were told about a tragic accident  that happened only a few weeks ago. Told not to scare us but to remind us of  the potential dangers of walks around these areas. Karijini National Park has the most recorded injuries of any National Park around Australia. Usually from ill prepared travellers attempting trails beyond their capabilities.


Views as we descend. Not a bad view for a morning walk. It is about now that we start hearing some rumblings in the distance and notice some dark cloud areas above us. Timna, not one to panic, is obsessed with listening out for the sound of the desert tree frog. The kids learnt from the visitors centre, that the desert tree frog will let out a screech as a warning of an impending flash flood.



Fern Pool is found on a beautiful detour from Fortescue Falls. You feel so isolated. You feel like you are in the middle of a rainforest. The water is crystal clear you and you can see all the way to the bottom, so inviting. Timna, still stressing about the potential weather changes, has decided against swimming and is keeping a keen ear out for the desert tree frog screech!

With Timna on guard, these guys enjoy the beautiful water and waterfall of Fern Pool. Paradise!
Timna swears she can hear the frog...... Linda can't but can certainly feel the rain that is starting to fall. Time to  head back to the van.